5.0 on Tripadvisor Licensed by the Ministry of Tourism and AntiquitiesMinistry licensed guides On the river since 2011 Luxor and Aswan, every week

Egypt Travel Guide

Egypt, planned properly. When to come, what it costs, what you will actually see, and what a day on the river feels like — written by the people who run the boats, not copied from a brochure.

Egypt at a glance

October – AprilThe season most people choose
$30 visaOn arrival or online before you fly
Egyptian PoundCards in hotels, cash for tips
ArabicEnglish spoken everywhere in tourism
GMT +2GMT +3 through the summer
1 hour from CairoTo Luxor; 1 hr 20 to Aswan

When to sail

Upper Egypt is dry all year. The only real variable is heat. These are average daytime highs in Luxor.

Jan23°
Feb25°
Mar29°
Apr34°
May39°
Jun41°
Jul41°
Aug41°
Sep39°
Oct35°
Nov29°
Dec24°
Nov–Feb · warm days, cool eveningsMar, Apr & Oct · hot but comfortableMay–Sep · very hot, far fewer people

Summer sailings are the quietest and the best value — temples early in the morning, the sundeck and the water for the rest of the day. See the full month by month guide, with Aswan and night temperatures.

Eleven places worth the trip

From the Mediterranean coast down to Lake Nasser, roughly in the order the country runs. A Nile cruise reaches most of them without a single suitcase being repacked.

01Pompey’s PillarAlexandria

A Roman column and two granite sphinxes on a hill above the city. Alexandria is the one part of Egypt that feels Mediterranean rather than pharaonic.

02The Pyramids & the SphinxGiza

Forty-five centuries old and still the largest thing any of us has built by hand. Half a day, early.

03The Grand Egyptian MuseumGiza

The whole Tutankhamun collection together for the first time, in sight of the pyramids themselves.

04Karnak TempleLuxor

Two thousand years of pharaohs adding to one building. The hypostyle hall alone holds 134 columns.

Read the Karnak guide →

05Luxor TempleLuxor

Best after dark, when the colonnade is lit and the town is out walking. Ten minutes from the moorings.

Read the Luxor Temple guide →

06Valley of the KingsLuxor, west bank

Sixty-odd tombs cut into the rock, the painted ceilings still holding their colour.

Read the Valley of the Kings guide →

07Temple of HatshepsutLuxor, west bank

Three terraces built straight into the cliff for Egypt’s most successful female pharaoh.

Read the Hatshepsut guide →

08Edfu & Kom OmboBetween Luxor and Aswan

The best preserved temple in Egypt, and a double one shared by two gods, right on the water.

09The Unfinished ObeliskAswan

Still lying in the quarry where it cracked, part-cut from the bedrock. It explains how the others were made better than any museum can.

10Philae TempleAswan

Moved stone by stone to its own island to save it from the water. You arrive by boat.

11Abu SimbelLake Nasser

Four colossal Ramses figures carved into a mountain. An early start from Aswan, and worth every minute.

Swipe for more →

Choosing your ship

Every ship we work with sails the same river and visits the same temples. What changes is the cabin, the deck and the table.

Prices are per person for the whole cruise, based on two sharing a cabin. Not per night.

A day on board

06:30Out before the heat

Tea on deck, then away to the temples while the light is still low and the site is still empty.

10:00With your Egyptologist

Two or three hours walking the site with a guide who reads the walls rather than reciting dates.

13:00Back on board, and sailing

Lunch as the ship pulls out. The bank moves past at walking pace — villages, buffalo, palm, the desert behind it.

16:00The sundeck

The best hours of the day. Nothing to do and nowhere to be until the ship ties up.

19:30Dinner

Half past seven in winter, eight in summer. Then a lit temple, a Nubian band, or the deck and the stars. Whichever you feel like.

Before you travel

Visas and arrival

Most visitors buy a 30-day tourist visa. It costs $30 single entry — either online as an e-visa before you fly, or at the bank desk in the arrivals hall before passport control. A multiple-entry visa is $65. Your passport needs six months left on it.

The e-visa is the calmer option: apply a week or two ahead, print the approval, and walk straight to the immigration desk.

Money and tipping

The currency is the Egyptian Pound. Hotels, ships and larger restaurants take cards; markets, taxis, the man with the donkey cart and every tip do not. Draw pounds from an ATM at the airport rather than changing money at home — the rate is better and the notes are current.

Tipping worries visitors more than anything else on this list, and it should not. In Egypt we tip each other constantly. It is ordinary courtesy, not a foreign custom being performed at you.

It matters here because for most people working in tourism a tip is not a bonus on top of wages. It is part of the income they live on. That is why someone will often wait beside you after doing something for you.

Guideline amounts for your guide, your driver and the boat crew are written on your itinerary, so you are never guessing. If you would rather hear the numbers from a person, ask us before you travel and we will tell you exactly what is normal.

What to pack
  • Light, loose cotton or linen — long sleeves are cooler than bare arms in the sun
  • A hat with a brim, sunglasses, and stronger sun cream than you think you need
  • Shoes you can walk uneven stone in. The tombs are ramps and steps, not paths
  • Something warm for the evenings from November to February — the desert loses its heat fast
  • A refillable bottle, a torch for the tombs, and a scarf for the mosques
  • Modest clothing for religious sites: shoulders and knees covered, hair covered for women in mosques
Health, water and food

Drink bottled or filtered water only, and use it for brushing your teeth too. On board, water and ice are safe.

Eat hot food that arrives hot, and fruit you peel yourself. Egyptian cooking is one of the better reasons to come — be adventurous with the kitchen, careful with the street.

No vaccinations are required for entry from most countries, but check with your own doctor before you travel. Bring any prescription medicine with you in its original box.

Getting around

Most itineraries fly Cairo to Luxor or Aswan — about an hour, several times a day. The sleeper train is the slow, romantic alternative; the road is not worth it.

Once you are on the ship, the ship does the travelling. Transfers, coaches and site entry are arranged for you; you carry a camera and a bottle of water.

Customs and etiquette
  • Greet people before you ask them anything. It changes every exchange that follows
  • Ask before photographing a person. Most will say yes and want to talk
  • Some tombs and museums charge separately for cameras. Carry small notes
  • Bargaining in the bazaar is expected and friendly, not a fight
  • The right hand for eating, greeting and giving
  • During Ramadan, eat and drink discreetly in public during daylight

Questions we are asked most

How long should the cruise be?

Four or five days covers Luxor, Edfu, Kom Ombo and Aswan properly, and that is what most people book. Seven-night sailings run in both directions and are quoted on request. Add Cairo at one end and Abu Simbel at the other and you have seen the country.

Is the price per night?

No. Every price on this site is per person for the whole cruise, based on two people sharing a cabin. It includes the cabin, full board, the guided visits listed on the ship’s page, and your Egyptologist.

Do I need a guide, or can I do it alone?

You can walk into any site alone. You will see the stone and miss the story. A good Egyptologist is the difference between photographing a wall and reading it, and ours are included.

Your guide stays on board with you on most sailings. When the ship has no cabin free, he follows it along the river and meets you at every site, so the programme runs exactly the same either way.

What is actually included?

Cabin, all meals on board, the sightseeing programme printed on each ship’s page, entrance fees where stated, and guiding. Flights, visa, drinks, tips and optional excursions such as the balloon or Abu Simbel are extra unless the page says otherwise.

Can you build something that is not on the website?

Yes — that is most of what we do. Tell us the dates, the number of people and roughly the standard you want, and we will put an itinerary together and price it.

Tell us when you want to come

We will send back two or three ships that actually fit, with real prices for your dates.

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